I'm embarking on a European adventure where my only plan is to land in the UK! I'm going to be posting all the cool (and possibly not so cool) stuff that happens and things I see so all you folks back home can enjoy!

Thursday, 11 July 2013

The soul of Europe.

First off, I have to apologize for the insane amount of pictures in this post, but once you see them you'll understand why I just couldn't leave them out! This is only a fraction of the photos I took, I might add.

So last time I posted I had just arrived in Lisbon, the oldest capital city in western Europe. It actually predates Paris and Rome by a couple hundred years! I have to say, my first impression of the city wasn't the greatest, but that serves me right for continuously showing up in towns on a Sunday! In Europe, you should never judge a town on a Sunday, you'll think no one lives there except drug dealers and bums. I checked in to the Goodnight hostel at 7am-ish, had a shower, chilled for a bit, then did my typical 'roam the town' trick, but all I really found was a nearly empty square, a bunch of run-down buildings, and a French aircraft carrier in the harbour. I still have no idea what that was all about...


By the way, I rediscovered the panorama function on my phone camera, and Portugal has the most amazing views so you're gonna see a lot of those. So I got a little lost as usual, found my way back to the hostel, and looked up some sights in town. I found online a little chapel/museum that had free entry till 2, so I hopped up and rushed over. Sorry for the quality of the photos, I forgot my camera and had to use the phone.



Apparently the Portuguese really liked taking the bones of saints and putting them in glass cases or sculptures. I'm pretty sure that's a skull on the bottom. And I gotta say, those statues have kind of a creepy blank look to them!





Some neat artifacts from the museum. Those robes are threaded with gold! But that's nothing, check this out.





That right there is the most expensive chapel in Europe, the chapel of São João Baptista. Apparently we know where all that Brazillian gold went! And take a closer look at those "paintings." They aren't paintings, they're mosaics! How long would one of those take, eh!
After that I went back to the hostel to get some laundry done, only to find that they didn't have the facilities, but their sister hostel, Good Morning, did, and it was only a seven minute walk. On the way I found a newer part of town, some live jazz in a park, and some chill time.




So I got all that done, and by this time it was dinner, so I went back to my hostel once again. I'm going to keep most of the text pretty short just because there's so many photos, but I'll try not to leave anything out! At the hostel there was some new people hanging around so I got to know a few of them, notably James and Emma from New Zealand. I also got to know a bit of the staff too. I gotta say, and I know I already said Tossa had the best hostel, but the Goodnight Hostel of Lisbon was perfect. The hostel itself was very charming, clean, quiet, but it was the staff that made it. Vicente, Sofia, João (there were three,) Magda, the list goes on. Young awesome people who seem to genuinely love what they did, and were excellent at it. I felt more like I was in their house than a hostel!
Anyhow, I rant again. A few of us decided to take the walking castle tour in the morning. We got up, had our pancakes, which were awesome, met up with a crew from the other hostel, and headed out. This tour was conducted by more members of the hostels, Manuela and....João. There's a lot of those here... I've never enjoyed a tour quite that much, those two spent most of the time laughing and poking fun at each other, but still managed to load us up with info. Here's the castle with some views and panoramas from the top.

















One of the towers of the castle had been converted into a really neat periscope tour.


And there was a museum with a ton of pottery and ol' clay pipes.


Random dude on a typical Alfama district street.


Here's one thing that blew my mind.


Just like apples back home! During this little tour I got to know a few other people pretty good. Barb from San Fran, and Lauren from Florida who was staying in the other hostel. Barb, James, Emma, and I decided after the tour to grab some Pastel De Nata (famous Portuguese custard tarts) and head to the Belèm district to the West, which houses the Royal Palace and numerous Museums.



This little tower is really cool. See those little portholes on the bottom? There's a matching tower on the other side of the river and when enemy boats would sail through, those cannons would tear them apart at water level from both sides.



The Portuguese Military Museum. That guard had a pretty intense dislike of the Spanish. That night the four of us got some dinner at a place recommended to us by Sofia from the hostel called Santa Rita, then ventured in search of Fado music! We never did find the typical dark cave-like House of Fado I had pictured in my mind, but we did find a little outdoor place and the singers were quite good, so we had success. That night after everyone else went to bed I had some good talks with Vicente and a couple other staff, but turned in early as we had some good plans the next day!
After breakfast, I met up with Barb, Lauren, and Ivana from Italy, and we headed to the train station to embark on a day trip to Sintra. We had a bit of trouble with the ticket machines, but it all worked out in the end. Now before I force this mass of photos down your throat, I'll give you a quick background on Sintra.
Back in the day, all the wealthy nobles and royalty of Lisbon and surrounding areas started building a bunch of summer homes about 16 miles from Lisbon city. Summer homes is putting it just a tad mild I think. Observe:







Sintra is basically a real-life disneyland. This little palace and courtyard had the most stunning network of caves and tunnels you could exlpore! I was in heaven...





And the architecture was state-of-the-art as well.

























So that's the first palace. The next, Palacio do Pena, was even bigger. Not quite as many caves, but some unreal gardens and lakes with the odd altar and chapel thrown in.














I wouldn't mind a dinner set like that! Here's an early shower.


And a very early toilet.


And take a close look at the carvings on these walls...


That's all painted! There's talent for ya. More photos of amazingness...













Don't worry, that's it for the photos. As I mentioned before though, you just can't explain that kind of experience with words.

Feeling pretty burnt out from all the walking in 40° weather we found our way back to the train station, then back to the hostels to get ready for dinner. This was a pretty wicked night that really showed how awesome these hostels were. Every Tuesday the staff from the hostels gets anyone willing together and takes them out for dinner. Ten euros, all you can eat (at Santa Rita again) all the beer and sangria you can drink, amazing food and amazing company. During dinner I met yet again another person from Toulouse! After dinner we all headed to a little hole in the wall bar (literaly little more than a whole in a wall) to try the local liqueur, Ginjhina, a cherry based drink sometimes served in chocolate cups. Then to another bar down an alley alive with people and live music.


Then to a club where they played almost exclusively 80's rock. Due to the fact that smoking is allowed indoors still, a few of us headed back up the crazy street to find more music, then headed home. Wild night topped off with another good chat with Vicente. The next morning I said my goodbyes, made it to the bus station without much trouble, and boarded my bus to Porto. That's pretty much it for now, other than to say it's freakin COLD here! But I suppose it's good preparation for my inevitable journey to Scotland...
This time I will leave you with...a face. Good bye!




2 comments:

Dad said...

Hey, my compie's fixed! I can finally post... a post... What a beautiful place! I hear that, along with Spain and Greece, Portugal is suffering the most, economically. See any signs of that? Great photos; I especially liked the colourful castle. So why is Portugal of interest to you? And what's next?

Paul d'Aoust said...

Holy cow, that's a lot of gold in that chapel. Spectacular, but also rather overwhelming. I don't think I'd be able to concentrate if I tried to go to church there.

I love all the terra cotta rooves in that church. I didn't realise Lisbon was so far south as to have palm trees and whatnot.

When I was looking through all those 'summer house' photos, I thought they were from a bunch of different houses -- I didn't realise that they were all from the same property until you said 'and the next palace was even bigger'. I liked the colourful one the best.

So how cold is Porto really? I looked at the weather report and it said it got up to the high 20s, which doesn't seem all that bad...

Oh, and how did that porthole thing work? Was it a series of lenses?